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  • Shortening Hitachi tracks

    Hi,
    I'm a first time poster to this forum so I hope you can help me.

    I'm going to remove a track chain link from each of my hitachi ex60-3 chains, which have reached full adjustment on the idler. I know you have to drive out the master pin from the chain, cut out the next link/normal pin then re-assemble it but I can find little advice on the internet regarding the finer details. One of the few things I found described splitting the chain, cutting out the normal pin then cutting down the normal bushing to fit the master link. I guess the master pin and spacers are used again so why would the master bushing not be re-used? Or is the master bushing destroyed as well splitting the chain?
    Really looking for a step by step guide to removing a link from a track chain if anybody can help!
    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    If you do that you will destroy the sprockets...................
    A driven man with a burning passion.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Stock View Post
      If you do that you will destroy the sprockets...................
      Yea, the sprockets are getting worn too. Just looking to get a few more hours from it all before replacements.

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      • #4
        Hi & welcomeThe master pin usually has a sleeve with two spacers inside the chain link, where as all the others are cold pressed in, so in effect you will need to create a chain with 2 master pins and links. So you'll need to either press or burn out one of the other pads pins to do this. By the time you've done that .. You will have used up some precious cash that could have bought you some nice new chains and bolts, and sprocket rims. The EX 60 rims were well chunky, they might even do you a second set of chains without changing them Have they gone sharp ?
        Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Muz View Post
          Hi & welcomeThe master pin usually has a sleeve with two spacers inside the chain link, where as all the others are cold pressed in, so in effect you will need to create a chain with 2 master pins and links. So you'll need to either press or burn out one of the other pads pins to do this. By the time you've done that .. You will have used up some precious cash that could have bought you some nice new chains and bolts, and sprocket rims. The EX 60 rims were well chunky, they might even do you a second set of chains without changing them Have they gone sharp ?
          Hi,
          thanks for the reply. Yes, the sprockets are looking fair sharp now. I believe you can get another 750 to 1000 hours by removing a link by which time the whole lot will be in need of renewal. Any ideas on which bushing/spacers you use when re-assembling the chain again?
          Thanks.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Dury1990 View Post
            Hi,
            thanks for the reply. Yes, the sprockets are looking fair sharp now. I believe you can get another 750 to 1000 hours by removing a link by which time the whole lot will be in need of renewal. Any ideas on which bushing/spacers you use when re-assembling the chain again?
            Thanks.
            I shouldnt post late at night .. i was talking some mince there .. you just need to burn off the pin and shoulders of the link next to the master link.

            Are you sure it wouldnt be cheaper to have the chain pin and bushed, and fit new sprockets ? If your sprockets are already sharp they'll start jumping long before 750 hours
            Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Muz View Post
              I shouldnt post late at night .. i was talking some mince there .. you just need to burn off the pin and shoulders of the link next to the master link.

              Are you sure it wouldnt be cheaper to have the chain pin and bushed, and fit new sprockets ? If your sprockets are already sharp they'll start jumping long before 750 hours
              I wouldn't think so. I'm based in the Scottish Islands so sending track chains away and back to be refurbed isnt really an option. The old boy I bought the digger from originally, who has run a large plant hire business for the last 40 years, recommended I remove a link. He has done it on many of their machines. Just though I'd ask here instead of pestering them. Any idea what bushing I use when re-assembling the chain? Master or normal bushing??

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