Today I remounted the Ram. Itīs leakfree and finished well the first short test. So the work is done. Thank you for all hints and tips.
WoWe
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Volvo EC15 B - Offset-ram leaks
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Now I got the round steel back from the turning shop. They add a thread and a fit as by the original one.
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Then the welding part began. This was not an easy part, because the welding area adjoins directly to the seal of the front cap of the pushrod is driven in. Here you can see the result:
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The problem is, that the melting steel touches the area where must pass the seal. At this pic I give the pushrod to the cylindre and pushes it completely in:
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To handle this problem I fixed a protection tube around the pushrod. Before welding, I made the area hot with an electric fan. The welding current was about 200A. I hope it keeps stable.
Now the reassembling must be done.
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Originally posted by wowe View Postthe most work at my digger is completely new to me.
The comments were not put you in bad light at all, sorry for that, but just to highlight the importance of thinking carefully before starting any new adventure in excavator repair. When is it not broken, I prefer not to touch it
thanks for sharing the seal change operation.
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Ayi a big stillson and a bit of scaffold pole .. end up damaged end cap for sure like I said, but you are just as worse off now and taken twice the time
Btw - the front cap isnīt damaged - itīs in a very good condition. I removed the welding points from opening and there are no problems.
When you look at the seal of the cap - you can see the real origin problem:
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If you look at the green seal you can see that itīs damaged completely. There are many little parts broken out around the whole circle. If I didnīt damage the pushrod with the flex, I would fit the new seal set and the old pushrod and I think that would be all to do. But sadly I made the mistake with the caughting flex. But - so what.
Now I have ordered a blank hydraulic round steel. When I get it I give it to a turning shop to adapt it for the piston. Then I cut the eye of the old pushrod and weld it to the new round steel. For this work I made a device with the old pushrod. So the eye will fit as at the old pushrod:
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Alternatively it would be possible to weld the eye at the installed ram. But at the work bench it would be easier.
Wowe, hope you learned something out of this..
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Originally posted by Muz View PostAye ye'd have been faster wi a big stillson and a bit of scaffold pole .. end up damaged end cap for sure like I said, but you are just as worse off now and taken twice the time
Wowe, hope you learned something out of this..
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Aye ye'd have been faster wi a big stillson and a bit of scaffold pole .. end up damaged end cap for sure like I said, but you are just as worse off now and taken twice the time
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The ram is open. i welded a square tube to the cap and then the opening was easy. But at flexing the welded tube away after the action, the flex caught and I violated the pushrod . Maybe I can make a rework at the pushrod.
But when I lock to the front cap, there are some questions.
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You can see the cuted outer o-Ring. I donīt know, if this cap must (or could) be further disassembled to get all the seals out. Maybe somebody knows this.
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Cap the hydraulic lines off on the hoses to the ram you took off , make a bar to hold the boom in place where the ram came from. use the machines bucket to pull the c spanner , hydraulics have more power than your arms .. I have used our 3 ton excavator to loosen ram nuts on my 8 tonner ..
You may need some thing better than your vise to hold the ram though .
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Yesterday I mounted the ram from the digger away. In the mounted state, there was no chance to open the ram. I took a very good privat offer and bought a big and stable c wrench. Today I fixed the ram at my workbench and used a 1m lever - but the only one which moved was the vice . I made the ram hot - about 100 degree with a electric fan - but this was insufficient for a success. And I wonīt use an open flame. I read that another one makes the ram so hot that the ram was glowing red. But I will not do this. Now I consider to welt a 2m long angle steel at the front cap and fix it in a big vice of a friend. I will not use a big pipe wrench, because I donīt have one and with such a tool you can only downgrade the cap.
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Originally posted by wowe View PostI agree. But at least one seal is defect. And then I need to buy the complete set. Thats the reason, because I asked if the seals are standard parts to get only the damaged it from a dealer. From Volvo I only get the complete set.
Thats also a question of the eqipment.
Haha - but this is a joke.... or not????
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dont fancy damaging paint and seals if I dont have to.
Ive pulled apart rams 4 times that size without ever needing to use it ... just needs a bigger wrench and more elbow grease
if all that fails I phone my machine shop
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Originally posted by wowe View PostDo you have a special reason for this opinion?
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Originally posted by Muz View PostJust get a big stillson pipe wrench onto it if you dont have a 'c' spanner .. you will mark the end cap, but you can grind that back once you are done Dont heat it !
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Heres one of mine still running without any significant leaks
Someone has tried to dig with the pushrod or it has been attacked by a pack of rodents
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Dont heat it !
About your pic: You have many damages. I have only one, but this one damaged the seals.
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