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Thread: Volvo EC15B cutting out

  1. #31
    Admin Muz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim_poole247 View Post
    I appreciate this is an old thread, but while trying to diagnose the same issue on a customers EC15b I stumbled across this thread.

    My customer said that the engine kept cutting out when it got hot, so I started down the overheating route (blow out rad, check thermostat etc). Rad was full of leaves etc so after blowing out and running for over an hour, the machine didnt cut out. Customer came to collect it, next day, shut down again, back to workshop.

    Again in the workshop it ran fine, until i lifted up and slammed shut the rear counterweight. The shock of shutting it was enough to kill the engine. It happened everytime.

    Anyway, long story short, it was the 'ECU' at fault. Disconnecting it does indeed solve the issue. I also had an attempt at fixing the board to no avail, but I did come up with a cheap workaround/alternative option for others with this issue.

    Leave all sensor wires connected as they should be. Completely remove the ECU (but make sure to reattach any other earth wires which shared the mounting bolt). On one of the two plugs that connect to the ECU is a terminal that earths when either the oil pressure or temp sensor fire (perhaps all sensors share this terminal but those were the only 2 i tested for), run a wire from this terminal to the negative side of a 12v buzzer. You have two options as to where to take a live feed for the buzzer from, 1) ignition fed live (buzzer will sound as soon as ignition is turned on as there is no oil pressure - buzzer stops when engine is running unless there is an issue) or, what I done, 2) tap into a alternator switched live (only live when engine is running)

    Doing option #2 means the buzzer won't opperate when the ignition is switched on, but sounds when there is an issue. This allows you to switch off the engine manually before any harm can be done to the engine.

    On the back of the plate where the ECU is mounted is another module, one of the wires coming out of this module is live only when the engine is running, I just scotchlocked into this wire to give my 12v buzzer its live feed. There are probably other wires you can tap into but that was the first one I found. I positioned the buzzer inside the left control pod, beside the throttle lever so it can easily be heard even at max rpm.

    A buzzer can be brought for under 10 from most motor factors. This saves you a HUGE amount compared to the actual ECU and helps removes the risk of engine damage by just disconnecting the ECU.

    Hope this helps someone somewhere with the same issues.
    Good post Thank you ( and welcome also )
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim_poole247 View Post
    I appreciate this is an old thread, but while trying to diagnose the same issue on a customers EC15b I stumbled across this thread.

    My customer said that the engine kept cutting out when it got hot, so I started down the overheating route (blow out rad, check thermostat etc). Rad was full of leaves etc so after blowing out and running for over an hour, the machine didnt cut out. Customer came to collect it, next day, shut down again, back to workshop.

    Again in the workshop it ran fine, until i lifted up and slammed shut the rear counterweight. The shock of shutting it was enough to kill the engine. It happened everytime.

    Anyway, long story short, it was the 'ECU' at fault. Disconnecting it does indeed solve the issue. I also had an attempt at fixing the board to no avail, but I did come up with a cheap workaround/alternative option for others with this issue.

    Leave all sensor wires connected as they should be. Completely remove the ECU (but make sure to reattach any other earth wires which shared the mounting bolt). On one of the two plugs that connect to the ECU is a terminal that earths when either the oil pressure or temp sensor fire (perhaps all sensors share this terminal but those were the only 2 i tested for), run a wire from this terminal to the negative side of a 12v buzzer. You have two options as to where to take a live feed for the buzzer from, 1) ignition fed live (buzzer will sound as soon as ignition is turned on as there is no oil pressure - buzzer stops when engine is running unless there is an issue) or, what I done, 2) tap into a alternator switched live (only live when engine is running)

    Doing option #2 means the buzzer won't opperate when the ignition is switched on, but sounds when there is an issue. This allows you to switch off the engine manually before any harm can be done to the engine.

    On the back of the plate where the ECU is mounted is another module, one of the wires coming out of this module is live only when the engine is running, I just scotchlocked into this wire to give my 12v buzzer its live feed. There are probably other wires you can tap into but that was the first one I found. I positioned the buzzer inside the left control pod, beside the throttle lever so it can easily be heard even at max rpm.

    A buzzer can be brought for under 10 from most motor factors. This saves you a HUGE amount compared to the actual ECU and helps removes the risk of engine damage by just disconnecting the ECU.

    Hope this helps someone somewhere with the same issues.
    Thanks for documenting this.

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