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Thread: EC15b overheats

  1. #1
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    Question EC15b overheats

    Hi,

    been offline for a while, but that was due to troublefree operation.

    But now as the season started, the good old -15b lights the engine temp. warning light after about 30 minutes of digging ( quite heavy stuff).

    Have
    -changed cooling liquid, it is new.
    -flushed the cooling circuit
    -checked thermostat
    -changed oil 10W30 synth. +new filter

    have not:
    -changed the water pump
    -changed the radiator.

    what next?

    mattir

  2. #2
    Admin Muz's Avatar
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    check rad is clear and fins are not blocked .. you have to be able to see through it .. not just identify no obstruction from the outside .. the old black box under the seat is never very far from causing trouble either in this regard as you know.

    There is another classic problem covered on this fine forum , of the fan belt rubbing through the bottom hose causing fluid loss ... and eventual overheating
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muz View Post
    check rad is clear and fins are not blocked .. you have to be able to see through it .. not just identify no obstruction from the outside .. the old black box under the seat is never very far from causing trouble either in this regard as you know.

    There is another classic problem covered on this fine forum , of the fan belt rubbing through the bottom hose causing fluid loss ... and eventual overheating
    Oh yes, the rad is the main suspect. Will flush it from outside. Checked the hose last year and would say that the fanbelt need to be quite loose to start eating the hose. But,point taken. Will see whats going on...

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    Smile

    Cleaned the rad with water. Water came through the fins.

    Some digging this morning.

    The tiny overheat warning light was glowing just barely when I started the engine. Later the light illuminated to its full bloom and the STOP-engine lights lit as well.

    Now I dig in 15 minute intervalls and spend a lot of time with iPad to let the machine cool down.

    Belt is tight and there is enough coolant. Do I need to buy a new rad?

  5. #5
    Fabrication Guru +1 v8druid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattir View Post
    Cleaned the rad with water. Water came through the fins.

    Some digging this morning.

    The tiny overheat warning light was glowing just barely when I started the engine. Later the light illuminated to its full bloom and the STOP-engine lights lit as well.

    Now I dig in 15 minute intervalls and spend a lot of time with iPad to let the machine cool down.

    Belt is tight and there is enough coolant. Do I need to buy a new rad?
    Nah ....... just another digger ..... anything other than an Ovlov EC15 ........ can not believe the amount of trouble that these give .... has put me off Ovlov ... permanently
    If it's got tracks, wheels, t*ts, or an engine, at some point it's gonna give you trouble!!

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    I'm wondering if theres an air lock somewhere ?, they were bad/awkward to bleed up, due to the position of the fan heater matrix low down, if you had drained the system
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

  7. #7
    Fabrication Guru +1 v8druid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muz View Post
    I'm wondering if theres an air lock somewhere ?, they were bad/awkward to bleed up, due to the position of the fan heater matrix low down, if you had drained the system
    pressure bleed it Muz?? ...... some old Renaults had similar issues with air locking ...... 12s and 16s particularly ... they had a 'service tool' .... rad cap with a 5ft high 'stack' ... 3/4" hose and funnel to bleed them with and air drain points in the plumbing .... were right lil' bar stewards to get air free

    also worth noting they were sealed systems
    If it's got tracks, wheels, t*ts, or an engine, at some point it's gonna give you trouble!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by v8druid View Post
    pressure bleed it Muz?? ...... some old Renaults had similar issues with air locking ...... 12s and 16s particularly ... they had a 'service tool' .... rad cap with a 5ft high 'stack' ... 3/4" hose and funnel to bleed them with and air drain points in the plumbing .... were right lil' bar stewards to get air free

    also worth noting they were sealed systems
    Yea .. I think the fix is to run it with the cap off in that event .. Mattir .. I take it the oil cooler is also clear ? as it blocks the air pathway by 70% or so ....
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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    Smile

    Hi,

    nice read comments. Thanks. Greetings to V8druid as well.

    The rad was not clean enough.

    I took this the hard way. Mayb saved some 500€ with a 0.03€ instrument. Used a piece of cable tie to clear almost all of the tiny openings in the rad. Some 300 of them. Sat on a bench and used the piece of cable tie and vacuum cleaner. 2 hours.

    Finally started the engine, full revs. and some water on the rad to clear it all.

    Did the same thing to the hydraulic fluid cooler.

    Will see if this helped.

    Changed the oil again to 15W40 Acea A3/B3 oil. The previos oil might have been not the best one. The new oil is thicker.

  10. #10
    Fabrication Guru +1 v8druid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattir View Post
    Hi,

    nice read comments. Thanks. Greetings to V8druid as well.

    The rad was not clean enough.

    I took this the hard way. Mayb saved some 500 with a 0.03 instrument. Used a piece of cable tie to clear almost all of the tiny openings in the rad. Some 300 of them. Sat on a bench and used the piece of cable tie and vacuum cleaner. 2 hours.

    Finally started the engine, full revs. and some water on the rad to clear it all.

    Did the same thing to the hydraulic fluid cooler.

    Will see if this helped.

    Changed the oil again to 15W40 Acea A3/B3 oil. The previos oil might have been not the best one. The new oil is thicker.
    Evening Boyo ..... nice to see you back on the scene
    If it's got tracks, wheels, t*ts, or an engine, at some point it's gonna give you trouble!!

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