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Thread: EC15 won't stop - starter staying powered?

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    EC15 won't stop - starter staying powered?

    I've got a strange intermittent issue with an EC15. Maybe 1 time in 10, when turning the machine off, it stays running. Unplugging the stop solenoid kills it, along with a loud "whirring" noise which sounds like a motor spinning down, having just been unpowered.

    What I think is happening is that the starter motor is staying powered up throughout, which is keeping the stop solenoid alive as well through it's cranking/pull coil.

    Is this a common occurrence? It sounds like it could be a defective starter motor relay, but want to check before dropping money on one!

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    If you don't have a mulitmeter, a simple test light will tell you if the solenoid is still powered.

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    The issue is that I'm struggling to recreate the fault. The solenoid connectors are also sealed, making it harder to attach a multimeter.

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    The starter has failed to disengage, (not uncommon) so the engine running 'it' will eventually burn it out, you will need to remove it and get it refurbed at a decent machine shop for a quarter of the price of a new one before it gets destroyed
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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    Groovy, cheers for the info. This has only just started happening and now seems to happen quite regularly, is that normal?

    Do you know what exactly is happening? Is the solenoid just stuck/gummed up? It's weird that it disengages when I kill power to the engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by xp677 View Post
    Groovy, cheers for the info. This has only just started happening and now seems to happen quite regularly, is that normal?

    Do you know what exactly is happening? Is the solenoid just stuck/gummed up? It's weird that it disengages when I kill power to the engine.
    Most usually its just fouling or lack of lube in the starter due to age, or wear of the components , I cant recollect the last time I changed any control gear ? .. its always been the motor

    Your early attention is advised though, fire is a real risk.
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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    That's great, cheers. I'll pull it tomorrow if the weather is good and see what's up with it.

    If it's just fouled and there aren't any damaged parts, I'll see what I can do with it myself. It's gonna be hard to get it rebuilt in lockdown.

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    Quote Originally Posted by xp677 View Post
    That's great, cheers. I'll pull it tomorrow if the weather is good and see what's up with it.

    If it's just fouled and there aren't any damaged parts, I'll see what I can do with it myself. It's gonna be hard to get it rebuilt in lockdown.
    Put 2-3 hrs aside to do that job to get it out .. mebbez shave a few minutes off if you read some post on here about the process .. its a bugger
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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    I hard a read of your thread on it last night - I'm considering if it would be easier/quicker to pull the whole engine and tray vs having to deal with the exhaust in place. I imagine that by now, the exhaust bolts will be rusted in place, and better access would make it easier to remove them without snapping them (easier to get the blowtorch, penetrating oil etc in there)

    The issue I can see with pulling the engine is that disconnecting the suction hose for the hydraulic pump will probably end up with all the hydraulic oil escaping. Not sure if the pump can be unbolted and set aside?

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    Quote Originally Posted by xp677 View Post
    I hard a read of your thread on it last night - I'm considering if it would be easier/quicker to pull the whole engine and tray vs having to deal with the exhaust in place. I imagine that by now, the exhaust bolts will be rusted in place, and better access would make it easier to remove them without snapping them (easier to get the blowtorch, penetrating oil etc in there)

    The issue I can see with pulling the engine is that disconnecting the suction hose for the hydraulic pump will probably end up with all the hydraulic oil escaping. Not sure if the pump can be unbolted and set aside?
    The suction hose has some flex so will come forward with the engine, the HP line has to come off though and will drip a fair bit so I usually seal that too .. try the bolts first, they are well protected and shouldnt have rust on them
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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