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Thanks for letting us know nic9 very glad you managed a repair without huge expenditure ... the dealers employ expensive mechanics who frankly dont live up to expectations ive found... and charge the earth
aye ...... there's nothing like knowing your machines inside out ..... TBH I think it makes you a better op. too, having knowledge of how/why/what's going on, as you use something and a lot more 'mechanically sympathetic', to them.
Thanks for letting us know ..... never know it just may help someone else in the future
Most important words
Thanks for letting us know nic9 very glad you managed a repair without huge expenditure ... the dealers employ expensive mechanics who frankly dont live up to expectations ive found... and charge the earth
Success!! Finally got my pressure gauge connected and identified that left swing is on port P2 not P1 and full pressure was getting to P2. P2, of course, is the one where the relief and make-up valves are very difficult to reach but I got the make-up valve out and found some muck when poking inside with a clean cloth on a screwdriver. Put it back together and it works. Just going to fit a new hydraulic filter before I put the floor back in.
Your long-distance diagnosis was spot on!
Thanks again to both of you for staying with me through this.
****ing marvelous mate
the schematic was the key to sussing it, together with the ol' gauges .... once you can see WTF the flow's going ... and you establish you have pressure, it's a simple elimination process and that bloody poppet was the prime candidate
Thanks for letting us know ..... never know it just may help someone else in the future
Success!! Finally got my pressure gauge connected and identified that left swing is on port P2 not P1 and full pressure was getting to P2. P2, of course, is the one where the relief and make-up valves are very difficult to reach but I got the make-up valve out and found some muck when poking inside with a clean cloth on a screwdriver. Put it back together and it works. Just going to fit a new hydraulic filter before I put the floor back in.
Your long-distance diagnosis was spot on!
Thanks again to both of you for staying with me through this.
you'll need tees to suit your plumbing .. probably metric
Its surprising how many jap units are BSP especially older stuff .. although that machine looks to be at a sort of cross over period for designers when they went metric ... or worse tapered metric in some cases whereas most euro stuff was solidly metric by then.
Does that seem like normal behaviour or should the ports be completely closed when the piston is out? Unfortunately I can't get at the relief valve on the other side so I can't take it out to compare.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3639[/ATTACH]
Hard to tell .. hydraulic pressures can be massive in relation to forces exerted by your hands for example. As long as the oil ways are clear from debris, you would accept it as looking normal. Rubber crumb, broken springs, damaged seals, and sticking spools are the most common faults in these areas
Pressure gauge arrived but not operational as I didn't know you need an adapter to connect to a hose fitting. So another couple of days to wait.
However I did remove the relief valve (see pic below) and would like your opinion on whether it's ok or not. You should be able to just make out that the port(s) are half open. When I stand it on its end and apply a bit of pressure with my palm, the piston moves in and clicks. The movement is very small, a quarter of a millimetre or less. I can then pull the piston back out to the position shown. Does that seem like normal behaviour or should the ports be completely closed when the piston is out? Unfortunately I can't get at the relief valve on the other side so I can't take it out to compare.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3639[/ATTACH]
It's a LOT more than just a plain old RV Nic .... it's a balanced pressure item and also has an anti shock shuttle in it .. quite a cartridge valve
Pressure gauge arrived but not operational as I didn't know you need an adapter to connect to a hose fitting. So another couple of days to wait.
However I did remove the relief valve (see pic below) and would like your opinion on whether it's ok or not. You should be able to just make out that the port(s) are half open. When I stand it on its end and apply a bit of pressure with my palm, the piston moves in and clicks. The movement is very small, a quarter of a millimetre or less. I can then pull the piston back out to the position shown. Does that seem like normal behaviour or should the ports be completely closed when the piston is out? Unfortunately I can't get at the relief valve on the other side so I can't take it out to compare.
It wont .. a flow meter might tell you something but if there's no resistance to flow you will see no pressure. You need to work out what feeds each side of the slew, start with the one you know works, (your guage will help you here) look for commonality in what should be the 'other' side and try and establish back at the block how the valve works so you can start eliminating what's wrong, you wont find it until you unravel the sequence of flow .. like I said earlier.. if you can stopper it off and prove/ or not that the service its self is working from the block, you will have established something, these problems are always a conundrum .. but by a process of elimination you will get there
Where abouts in the NW are you ? .. will be up that way in two weeks for some holiday and fishing time
I'm in the NW Highlands so Inverness is nearest town.
I am not 100% sure that oil is getting to the swing motor. When I swing right I can clearly feel the oil flow with my finger on the hose but I feel nothing on the left. Anyway, the pressure gauge will prove it one way or the other.
My pressure guage and assorted bits haven't turned up yet, and the weather is crap so I can't go fishing - all in all, not a happy time.
Loooooong way up country then mate
you will feel oil flow in the functional circuit because it has resistance ..... if as I surmise there is no resistance in the left circuit and it's free flowing to tank, I doubt you'd feel anything.
Muz's suggestions of stop ending P1/P2 ...whichever is the left circuit, but with a gauge tee-ed into the line before the stop end, at the end of the P1/P2 line will categorically confirm whether you have service pressure or not.
if you're not sure which is which/struggling to determine them, just tee the gauge into P1 & P2 in turn .... I'm pretty sure the left circuit will not show any pressure and the right will be obvious as the gauge will rise to working pressure ........ and she'll slew right.
Swap P1/P2 lines over again with the gauge still in circuit on the right port and pretty certain the left service will give you pressure and operate the right slew port on the motor (which I understand you've already done, but without the gauge in circuit???)
My money's still on that 'make up' poppet valve, being held open with summat extraneous
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