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Volvo EC15B cutting out
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Hi Jack .. I found the old unit that I de rubberised just the other day . turns out the board is also glued inside the case and would be a pain to get out
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..just re-visited this thread: Thanks for posting it Muz - it's exactly what's been happening to my old EC15B this week after I rebuilt the top half of the engine after a Cylinder Head Gasket Fail earlier this year.
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Originally posted by John.denneny View PostI’ve taken a punt on a cheap Chinese version of the part going by the correct part number and looks to have the same general shape, size and colour wires going into the same connectors. I believe this was less than £60. I could have bought an original part from Germany but then I figured the original part from Mitsubishi isn’t reliable so maybe on this occasion the Chinese have made a better version. As soon as I get it fitted I’ll update this post and provide the link to the eBay part. Took about ten days delivery which is pretty good.
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I’ve taken a punt on a cheap Chinese version of the part going by the correct part number and looks to have the same general shape, size and colour wires going into the same connectors. I believe this was less than £60. I could have bought an original part from Germany but then I figured the original part from Mitsubishi isn’t reliable so maybe on this occasion the Chinese have made a better version. As soon as I get it fitted I’ll update this post and provide the link to the eBay part. Took about ten days delivery which is pretty good.
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Having bought a second hand ec15 a week ago exhibiting these same problems I was relieved to read this set of posts since it’s clearly a well known fault, easy to diagnose and easy to fix. I’m not particularly put off by the £150 replacement part courtesy of eBay but I’m delighted to hear of someone willing to research and reverse engineer this component. My machine is 2007 with just under 3000 hours on it. The only problem I’m having right now is removing the seat! The mechanism seems to be rusted pretty well. Naturally I’ve sprayed everything with penetrating oil but I’m at a loss to work this out so far. I’ve managed to open a plastic container located under the seat that turned out to be empty.
I can’t tell you all how much I appreciate you sharing this knowledge. I’ve already saved hours just be reading this post and I’m a lot happier knowing this fault can be easily fixed.
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Hi, someone have information abot the two glass diode into the 16a11-14001 regolator? I have the other components but i cant read the two diode
thanks
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Has anyone got the part number for this,mine has started doing the same. I have a 2006 EC15 b. Cuts out prob 2 or 3 times in an hour....thanks in advance
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Originally posted by xp677 View PostThanks, I've seen the picture, it doesn't help with recreating the board as it's not possible to see the component values. I'd also need to see the rear of the board.
Do you still have the "de-gunked" board?
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Thanks, I've seen the picture, it doesn't help with recreating the board as it's not possible to see the component values. I'd also need to see the rear of the board.
Do you still have the "de-gunked" board?
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Yeah as you said your self ... its post #4 on this threadAnd no one likes to have to dissolve gunk off their unit
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Originally posted by Muz View PostI'll need to search .. it was a c*nt of a job to dissolve the rubber of it to expose the components on the board.. it was made by Mitsibishi if thats any help as I remember .. in fact theres a pic of it on here somewhere I'm sure
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Originally posted by Muz View PostI'll need to search .. it was a c*nt of a job to dissolve the rubber of it to expose the components on the board.. it was made by Mitsibishi if thats any help as I remember .. in fact theres a pic of it on here somewhere I'm sure
For the reconstruction, the numbers/letters printed on the pcb would enable searching for some ancient files and perhaps lead to a major discovery: circuit diagram.
Below most likely a useful hint for reconstruction.
http://m.covenantuniversity.edu.ng/c...ne+Standby.pdfLast edited by Mattir; 17-05-2020, 08:16 AM.
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Originally posted by Muz View PostI'll need to search .. it was a c*nt of a job to dissolve the rubber of it to expose the components on the board.. it was made by Mitsibishi if thats any help as I remember .. in fact theres a pic of it on here somewhere I'm sure
Cheers, I've seen the pic of the insides, it's in this thread, I think. For some reason, I can't click on the pictures to get a better view, I get a message saying I don't have permission.
I didn't see a picture of the back side - this is what I'd need most of all to reverse engineer the PCB.
My ECU is currently working so I don't want to mess with it. I don't fancy dissolving all the rubber either, if there's one already done!
If you can find it, I can have a design ready to clone the board within a few hours, it looks like a very simple circuit.
Cheers :)
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Originally posted by xp677 View PostMuz, do you still have the "ECU" which you removed the potting compound from?
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Originally posted by Mattir View PostI have been playing around with electronics as well. The ECU circuit is rather simple and it would be easy to replicate. Your cost estimate is realistic. Spare parts are normally priced with a remarkable multiplier making their price astronomical compared to cost of components.
could contributebto the reverse-engineering on a voluntary basis.
Good to know :). I'd plan to publicly release the PCB design files (I use EAGLE), gerbers (for manufacturing), and BOM (component list) for anyone who wants them. And I'd likely offer bare PCBs, PCB kits (solder yourself), and complete PCBs (with or without enclosure? who knows) for sale to those who want a complete solution.
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